BMC

 On our previous four outdoor climbing excursions, I led all of the climbs that we did. I like to lead climb, but for the group that is a bottleneck for climbing, and the others had to sit around and wait. Also, I found myself scrambling to get up several ropes to keep ahead of the climbers. No one complained and seemed to actually cherish the time to socialize. This time was different. All but one of the climbs was top rope/trad. I have a bit of a protest with people who set anchors. You see my safety backup in the first picture. If the anchors were 6-inches higher, I would not need this help. Two of the other top rope anchors were totally out of reach so that I had to rappel on my rope wrapped around a tree, then tie into the anchors, pull the rope, and set it up on the anchors. It can be done quite safely, but it is time consuming and effort intensive when the anchors could be set 1' to 1 1/2' higher and eliminate this problem. Oh well, we got it done and off to the races. 

The cliff line has three major sections between 50' and 150' long and 15-30' high. Part of my goal in bringing them here was to train them how to top rope, set-up and clean anchors. They made comments on how cool the stickers on my helmet are. It is a thoroughly old school helmet of a variety no longer available.

Big M (1) seemed to like belaying about as much as climbing. He has an arborist's harness on which is overkill for climbing but comfortable for all day hanging out in a tree with a chainsaw hung from your harness.

Tying in and considering the climbs.

Following is a sequence of her working a 5.7. That is an easy grade, but it seemed like you had to focus to flash it, which she did.

The ledge was as huge as it looks, but not all holds were so generous.

Matching

Feet up

...and up

We actually had four ropes set-up at once. With seven of us, that allowed someone to climb almost non-stop. I guess we needed an eighth climber/belayer for that to strictly happen.

Another sequence starting with an excited pose for the camera.

Have you noticed how much that you can see the layering in the sandstone? These layers make for good holds with little projections and indentations everywhere.

Where's the next hold.

I need a little beta-spray here guys.

Oh, made it.

I guess the camera person asked for attention.

Time to climb; got my shoes.

Sometimes too much climbing is not what you want when you can spectate and communicate.

"I was trying to avoid the camera."

Toping out on a nice little roof climb.

Chalk it up to another easy climb and flash.

The 5.4 route actually goes straight up at the right, but the little block hanging out makes it more interesting.

We finished off with our seventh pitch (2), a 5.9 sport climb, but for time management I still set it up on top rope. I guess I will ask the question of the people pictured. Am I the only one that has been to all 5 trips? At any rate, it was the right sized crew for the situation, and a good time was had by all.

It has been a God given opportunity to spend time with these young ones. I hope we may make many more outings.

1. I have had a policy of not naming people on my blog entries since the beginning. Can you believe that I have been blogging since 2007?

2. That is 49 attempts, most flashes, and really more since some were climbed twice to clean the anchors.

Hidden Valley Revel

It is quite the steep road up to the ridgetop and the climbers parking lot. It was one of the first crisp mornings of October and several degrees cooler at elevation. We started with layers on, but that didn't last long after the sun came up over the ridge. Being early gave us the pick of the crag, so we walked in to the first climbing area and set up shop.

There were many tries and good effort. This was the biggest group yet with nine of us. We even had one young lady in from NYC. The next move with no good holds was a challenge for many.

The views at ground level were good.

I was leading multiple pitches to get ropes up so everyone could keep climbing. I love the color of sourwood in the fall. It is a unique red tinged with yellow flowers on top.

I include this second shot of my lead to show off the sugar maple in the background.

One rope set up, but caution. You should not climb above this type of anchor, because a fall across these hooks could open the gates and the rope come out. I tried to oppose the gates, but it would not twist enough. You like my old-school helmet and construction worker's safety glasses? Nothing fancy, just functional and safe.

Here was the direction I was facing. The leaves peaked about a week later, but it was plenty beautiful this day.

A number of the pictures in these climbing blogs are not my own (obviously from the ones when I was leading). These girls took a smiling selfie as the next climber prepares to try the climb.

 And she begins.

Now it gets more serious. You can use some significant arm strength when you have get you feet high to reach the next handhold. All that tension can render you pumped out, where your forearms swell from the rush of blood into them and muscles temporarily fatigue.

Or between climbs you can chill out and contemplate life and the beauty of the surroundings. My mind doesn't quit working though. It is obvious that the block he is sitting on once fit into the roof above, but what caused it to come down? Ice expansion in the crack? Or lightning strike (The black streaks on the roof could be where lightning ran into the crack. I have seen black "flowers" on a face that marked where it struck.) Or was there an earthquake (many small ones per year in this area)?

Later on "besties" were doin' a different kind of chillin' at the base of that boulder- socializing.

Everyone got to try four pitches, and I tried a 5.11c top rope unsuccessfully. We were at the crag climbing, socializing, and contemplating from 9 to 4. No one seemed bored and the weather was pleasant enough for all three activities.

The gang gets larger each time we go. Given the backlighting, the picture was lightened up so that you could see the smiling faces. A good time was had by all.

Galax and rhododendron have become a symbol of the outdoors for me, since I spend most of my outdoor time in the Appalachian mountains where they are abundant. I guess it helps that they are evergreen.

And so I desire to be, not just physically, but all throughout, as the psalmist says,

"The righteous man will flourish like the palm tree,

He will grow like a cedar in Lebanon.

Planted in the house of the Lord,

They will flourish in the courts of our God.

They will still yield fruit in old age;

They shall be full of sap and very green,

To declare that the Lord is upright;

He is my rock, and there is no unrighteousness in Him."

(Psalm 92:12-15)

And "I pray that in all respects you may prosper and be in good health, just as your soul prospers," (3John 2) as well. 

A Better Climbing Day

I led the sport climbs, a 5.8, 9+, and 10b, then set-up an 11.a on top rope. The warm-up 5.8 is called Jigsaw. Following is a sequence from just above the first bolt to the third bolt. She was cruising this section.

I led the 5.9+ next.

Yes, even though the rope is above me, it is still a lead, because I stick clipped the first bolt. The first moves were plenty doable, but if I slipped the landing involved numerous jagged boulders, and someone would have to carry me out.

I know that the photographer was shutter happy, but if you look closely, you get a full picture of how many moves and some of the body positioning and tension, foot and handholds that are involved.

The photographer then took a break, so that you don't see me placing or clipping the next bolt. Rather, here I am above the roof.

Different photographer, different perspective

While I was doing that, others were working the 5.8.

The other photographer caught some of the intermediate moves.

I'm reaching for a quickdraw.

I am starting the overhung part while my compatriot tops out.

It is probably no more than a V2 (maybe V3 in a gym) problem at the end, but you are nearly gassed by the time you make it here.

"Off belay." "Belay is off."

Other end of the rope so that he gets an opportunity

She tries.

"What do I do next?"

I like the wide-angle effect on several of these shots.

It is a bit reachy for her.

Check out this sequence topping the roof on the 9+.

top out

Ground Crew

I stepped aside and saw this curious formation in the rock where a piece had broken out. The metamorphic process frequently separates out differing crystal structures based on temperature, pressure, and directional nature of the forces. Here you can see some quartzite in a backdrop of probably amphibolite.

He is a powerful boulderer. He is learning the difference in rope climbing: endurance, sustainability, figuring out the holds. Here he begins the 9+. You can see my painter's pole/walking stick/stick clip.

Where to begin? It is thinner on up, but there are big moves down low.

Working around that little roof is probably the crux. The holds are all there, but the body position is awkward.

Since we had two ropes, I set-up two climbs at a time, so that everyone was busy climbing, belaying, taking pictures, or beta observing/yelling encouragement. Following is another sequence on the 5.8.

A tree to lean against is always comfortable for a belayer. When you have never been on a climb, and the holds are not color-coded like in the gym, it takes some figuring both in where they are and body position to utilize them.

Belaying and snacking, no one sat idle.

Big move

Dancing her way up

Overcoming the roof in the background. Any difficulty done in the foreground.

Hanging out and posing.

So much blue sky

Another one fights the roof.

...and succeeds.

The overhanging finish has large jugs but powerful moves.

Compare this amount of water to before ("Soggy Bottom Creek").

It was dry enough to scramble up the face and step across the water to get back on the trail.

Many of the pictures in this blog entry were taken by others. I am thankful that they share them with us all and that I can put them up here. Following are a few playful moments and group shots.

Did something crawl into her chalk bag?

I often concentrate on the camera and forget to smile, but there are plenty of young smiles to go around and plenty of fun, Christian fellowship, challenge, and natural beauty for real smiles.

Silly picture they said, so silly we did.

I think they found a salamander and a balding head.

Onsite, belay, and beta spray sums up much of the climbing part of the day.

It was an exceptionally good day that God prepared for us. When we think the day is not so good, we should both ask what profitable lesson is to be learned and remember more pleasant days like this one. And chill on your way to the next destination.