Chillin' At Little Wilson

 The weather forecast called for upper eighties in the valleys with 90+ percent humidity and afternoon thundershowers. It would seem not to be a good day for climbing, but that depends on where you climb. My favorite crag for hot days is a mile hike into a cliff line not fifty feet from a cascading mountain creek. The hike in is pleasant and downhill, and about half of it is along the creek. There are a few small crags that would be worthy of crash pads, but I have never done more that thought to bring one. Depending on just when you come, various wildflowers are abundant. This day the Galax was blooming like I have not seen before.

Have you ever caught the astringent smell of Galax when it is drying in the sun after the dew or a light shower. It is a strange but not wholly unpleasant smell. Galax makes the forest floor look all the more lush.

A little further in we crossed a seep (1). Just along one margin was this curious grass with thin, needle-like blades of bright green. How thick it grows is yet to be seen this early in summer, but the dried leaves (2) suggest it has been here at least a couple of seasons, more likely many.

As you move downstream, the crag begins to emerge out of the left bank, at first not high and surprising to suddenly see in the thick undercover. Then the trail comes to a flat boulder beyond which the ground drops off fifteen feet. There rises an overhung cliff up to seventy feet tall echoing a lively creek close at hand.

This day I began teaching two of the young people to lead sport climbs. Belaying and instructing, I could not take pictures, but here is one other sending the 5.8.

In such a pictorial sequence, you can discern something of the movement required. Even on an easy climb like this one, flexibility, strength, and some amount of power are involved. The muscle use concentrates the mind on its own, but the search for good holds so focusses you as to frequently not hear beta (3) from below.

I refer to watching someone climb a route as visual beta (4).

A jug and then a transition around the arete, then you complete a short face climb to the rings.

Belayers and watchers here viewed from the flat boulder perch I mentioned earlier. There are now several dead trees, presumable because of the foot traffic around their roots, which have eliminated some of the shade and sense of wooded isolation that once graced this spot.

One good sized dead tree may have succumbed to the blight killing so many Hemlock trees. That in turn provides food for other organisms and nutrients for future growth.

The climbs here range from 5.8 to 5.12. Even some of the 9's and 10's are hard, not for technical difficulty, but for full on jug hauls under and upper roof.

Preparing to climb and taking a snack, always with time to talk.

Climbing the 5.9, she struggled with the top roof but sent it before we left.

Entering the hard part

Climbing can be tiring and relaxing all at the same time. More fueling going on in the background.

It occurs to me that the small dead tree is also Hemlock. Climbing is a full body workout.

I enjoy being around these young people and I guess that enables them to do climbing that they wouldn't do otherwise.

The temperatures were pleasant most of the time, especially when the clouds came over. We did have a few sprinkles, but mostly just jolly white clouds for shade.

Here he starts a 5.10b climb. 

This initial mantel is challenging if not executed correctly.

This looks easy, but it is a transition into the first of two cruxs (5).

And here it is. You must crossover and support much of your weight on this pad crimp (6), then reach the right out to a larger crimp.

And there is the larger crimp.

Then he matches.

It was a mistake for him to go up with the left hand, but he corrected it later and went on up.

More chillin' and smillin', snackin' and chewing the fat.

Every now and then I ask someone to take my picture to show that I really do climb and belay. My arms are caught in mid-execution of pulling in the rope which is immediately followed by pulling my brake hand down to my side.

Notice that though I am not looking at the climber in this moment, I do have my brake hand down and the rope is taut.

Now she is attempting the crossover on the 10b.

Making good progress

The match

In reality, it is a crux because there is very little purchase for the feet and short of a strong campus (7) off of crimpers you are not likely to reach the next hold.

Lowering after the catch

The sun came out and the moves were powerful. Everyone got sweaty, so let's cool down.

They started seeing critters in the water.

They called them Sallies.

Having grown up in a different environment, she said that a year earlier at this site was her first time ever seeing a salamander, and this day was the first time she had caught one.

Then another catch and they were squealing like young children. It reminded me of my children playing in the creek when they were young.

I watched more than participated. The water was cool on my feet, the shade also, and the scene was beautiful and restful.

This activity went on for at least half-an-hour.

I look and feel like a grandpa- guess I am.

Various kinds of cascading white

As I sat, I spied a large nest on the cliff above. What would it be? Hawk, eagle, buzzard?

I had never counted the number of leaves coming from one point on a Frasier Magnolia. There are eight, and that is odd in nature. Most things are multiples of three or five.

The climb pictured here is a 5.11a. The roof is a challenge to get over.

Working the 5.9 and 10b simultaneously

Rest spot just before the overhung jug haul

It is not uncommon for equipment to get strung out a crag after several hours of campaigning.

The walk out is all uphill, an endurance test after hours of climbing. We were all tired and satisfied with a day of climbing and creek play. I am blessed to tag along with this group of young, enthusiastic climbers. We are thankful to God for health, challenge, and friendship.

1. Seep, spring, rivulet? I don't know. It was muddy with a slight flow.

2. Blades? I'm having problems with language here.

3. beta- This is a climbing term coined by Texan climber Jack Mileski, who would record hard moves on BetaMax cassette tape and offer it to others to watch.

4. as opposed to a written or audible description

5. crux- The most difficult part of a climb references the cross, showing that the cultural understanding of what Christ did for sinners is latent in the language.

6. A crimp is only for fingertips. My term, pad crimp, is somewhat more descriptive since it tells how much of the finger is on hold, namely to the pads, but it is also somewhat redundant.

7. ascending without use of feet

John Douglas Wayside Boulders

Three guys and four pads, I like those ratios. Sweet ride, too, and proud owner, and did I mention, it is a beautiful day. I do wonder how long that stone wall has been there. If it doesn't get hit, it might be there more than a hundred years.

Nothing fancy, but it does have a nice picnic pavilion. 

The north and southbound lanes split 1/4-mile downslope, leaving the creek and vegetation to do its thing. If it weren't for the constant traffic noise, you could believe that you were in the middle of nowhere.

I had not seen Buckeye in a month of Sundays, but it was abundant here.

Yellow Poplars were frequents, too.

Evidently, he was trying to warn the settlement of impending attack when he met his demise.

We stand no more than 50 feet from the southbound lanes, but since it is below grade down toward the creek, you would hardly know apart from the noise. We are ready to rumble.

The warm-ups were quite easy with numerous flashes going around.

Still there were cool moves.

Some of the topouts were sketchy because of the weathered top.

I could not get this photo flipped. It is flipped in my files but won't show the same here. It feels mildly odd that we make so much effort marking this event, when it is one oft repeated in the early days of settlement. But I guess we remember the threat of clashing societies and differing beliefs by it.

Amazingly, I actually took very few climbing pictures due to spotting, climbing, and figuring out beta. I apologize to the guys for that. We took a snack break and chewed the fat, too.

We didn't try the following climb, because we didn't want to disturb this nest with five beige colored eggs.

I was fascinated by the woodpecker holes on the inside of this hollow Buckeye stump and the look of charcoal at the bottom of it.

We liked this heel hook climb.

Following is the only picture I have of this climber climbing. I don't mean to denigrate his efforts by this video. In reality, he completed the climb before and in less tries than I did. It does serve to show how projecting a climb can initially shut you down. We found that we were helping each other with potential beta that worked and tries that made progress.

We were at the boulder for 4 1/2 short hours, but the session was intense, the conversation good. I should have taken more pictures of the climbing but also the significant tree variety in such a small area. I commented that the traffic noise gave perspective, because we are in a world just trying get along and enjoy the beauty, and yet there is constant background noise in this life. We have to choose to focus on the good, mitigating the bad through our faith in God and enjoying His good gifts. I am thankful for this small gift of friends and a new place to try some boulder problems.