BMC

 On our previous four outdoor climbing excursions, I led all of the climbs that we did. I like to lead climb, but for the group that is a bottleneck for climbing, and the others had to sit around and wait. Also, I found myself scrambling to get up several ropes to keep ahead of the climbers. No one complained and seemed to actually cherish the time to socialize. This time was different. All but one of the climbs was top rope/trad. I have a bit of a protest with people who set anchors. You see my safety backup in the first picture. If the anchors were 6-inches higher, I would not need this help. Two of the other top rope anchors were totally out of reach so that I had to rappel on my rope wrapped around a tree, then tie into the anchors, pull the rope, and set it up on the anchors. It can be done quite safely, but it is time consuming and effort intensive when the anchors could be set 1' to 1 1/2' higher and eliminate this problem. Oh well, we got it done and off to the races. 

The cliff line has three major sections between 50' and 150' long and 15-30' high. Part of my goal in bringing them here was to train them how to top rope, set-up and clean anchors. They made comments on how cool the stickers on my helmet are. It is a thoroughly old school helmet of a variety no longer available.

Big M (1) seemed to like belaying about as much as climbing. He has an arborist's harness on which is overkill for climbing but comfortable for all day hanging out in a tree with a chainsaw hung from your harness.

Tying in and considering the climbs.

Following is a sequence of her working a 5.7. That is an easy grade, but it seemed like you had to focus to flash it, which she did.

The ledge was as huge as it looks, but not all holds were so generous.

Matching

Feet up

...and up

We actually had four ropes set-up at once. With seven of us, that allowed someone to climb almost non-stop. I guess we needed an eighth climber/belayer for that to strictly happen.

Another sequence starting with an excited pose for the camera.

Have you noticed how much that you can see the layering in the sandstone? These layers make for good holds with little projections and indentations everywhere.

Where's the next hold.

I need a little beta-spray here guys.

Oh, made it.

I guess the camera person asked for attention.

Time to climb; got my shoes.

Sometimes too much climbing is not what you want when you can spectate and communicate.

"I was trying to avoid the camera."

Toping out on a nice little roof climb.

Chalk it up to another easy climb and flash.

The 5.4 route actually goes straight up at the right, but the little block hanging out makes it more interesting.

We finished off with our seventh pitch (2), a 5.9 sport climb, but for time management I still set it up on top rope. I guess I will ask the question of the people pictured. Am I the only one that has been to all 5 trips? At any rate, it was the right sized crew for the situation, and a good time was had by all.

It has been a God given opportunity to spend time with these young ones. I hope we may make many more outings.

1. I have had a policy of not naming people on my blog entries since the beginning. Can you believe that I have been blogging since 2007?

2. That is 49 attempts, most flashes, and really more since some were climbed twice to clean the anchors.